Wednesday, June 18, 2014

WildFire D06 VBC Dynamics Edition is on the way to SpeedyRC

We are going to have Factory generic hop up version of our Champion TC Wildfire D06: the WildFire D06 VBC Dynamics Edition.

They are on the way to OZ now.

WildFireD06 VBC Dynamics Edition 1/10 Touring Car Kit D-05-VBC-CK06



The selective VBC Dynamics performance parts include in this kit: -

B-02-VBC-3043 WildFireD06 ALU7075 Chassis (2.0mm) NEW!!!

A-01-VBC-0029 Graphite Bumper Top Plate

B-02-VBC-0096 Titanium Coated Upright Shaft

B-02-VBC-0098 Titanium Coated Suspension Arm Pin

A-03-VBC-0077 Shaft End Shoe (Self Lubricating)

B-02-VBC-3031 Titanium Coated Shock Shaft for TBB Shocks

D-05-VBC-0095 TBB Oil Sealer Cap Set

A-03-VBC-0138 TBB Shock Piston (4 holes)

B-02-VBC-0136 TBB Shock Spring (Green-Soft)

B-02-VBC-0137 TBB Shock Spring (White-Hard)

D-05-VBC-0045 WildFire Front Stabilizer Set

D-05-VBC-0046 WildFire Rear Stabilizer Set

D-05-VBC-0032 WildFire Front/Rear Suspenion Shim (0.5mm)

D-05-VBC-0033 WildFire Center Suspension Shim (0.5mm)

D-05-VBC-0066 Center Suspension Mount (X/Y-C10)

B-02-VBC-0061-20 E20 Suspension Mount

One of the eye candy stuff is: Aluminium 7075 chassis along with standard graphite one.
2014-06-19_02


With 2 chassis, you can easily make your car keep up with the fastest pace in no matter what situation: Bumpy or Smooth, High Bite or Low Grip.


This is the ultimate version of VBC wildfire D06 Touring Car!





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Wednesday, June 4, 2014

New Car Body paint job for a customer- BittyDesign Striker SR 2.0

Got a new paint job from customer who bought car body from my eStore.
liquid mask applied, after pattern drawing finished.


Outcome! Thanks for watching.

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Tuesday, May 20, 2014

New Airbrush Painting on BittyDesign TC Body Striker SR 2.0

My New Airbrush Painting on BittyDesign TC Body Striker SR 2.0

Today I would like to share my new airbrush painting job on  BittyDesign TC Body Striker SR 2.0 190mm.
The preparation.
Paint job done! Before Windows mask and protect film tear-off.
Show-off.



Thanks for watching!
This Body is available for sell on RCTech.net and eBay.


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Thursday, May 1, 2014

Review of G-FORCE Super Sonic Brushless Motor

Review of G-FORCE Super Sonic Brushless Motor

Today I would like to do a brief review of the ever new released G-FORCE motor.
G-FORCE, is a quite fresh new Japanese brand. (http://www.gforce-hobby.jp/index.html)
They have released a range of RC products and mainly target to UK and Japan local market.
Today I got one of their primary products: G-FORCE Super Sonic Brushless 13.5T Motor on hand.

The motor has been packed well in box. Lets open it now.
Hold it on hand, very well made motor hence give me a very good quality feel.
Even at the very first glance, I thought it was LRP X20 except for the color is much darker. :)

I like the end bell design as well. the motor offer dual sensor ports for easy installation. Sweet!

Now Then, I am impressed by the torque potential of this motor. I am saying this is because it is harder to spin the rotor then other motors in the same spec I have met. Even harder then Trinity D3.5 with HT Rotor.
I am assuming this is a motor with excellent ground to mid power but lacking of top-end speed.  I have checked the spec table, it said the 13.5T only got 2860KV... Anyway, I will figure it out later.
Now Lets weight it and compare to my other motors on hand.
168 Gram. Pretty good.
I have a Reedy Sonic 13.5T, Trinity D3.5 13.5T and Trinity Killshot RPM 13.5T. Let checked them out.
179 Gram to Ready Sonic
178 Gram to Trinity D3.5
158 Gram to Trinity Killshot
Obviously, the weight of G-FORCE motor is in the middle of them. Very good so far.
Now, Lets take it into apart.

I can instantly feel the Magnetic force of rotor while pulling it out. It is so strong.
I have to admit that the routine cleaning task of this motor will not be easy cause you cannot reach the bearings from outside like Trinity Killshot motor. You have to take it apart first.
For the back-end bearing, you have to take out the timing end bell before clean it.
So far it is still OK for me. Now, the worse part is: Put them back on!
It is the most difficult part at all. Because the Magnetic force of rotor is so strong, I have spent about 30 minutes to align the correct placement and finally put them together.... -_-!
Anyway, It finally turn back into what it is.

Running Test 

Put it on to VBC Wildfire D06, I am guessing I can gear it down pretty low from the beginning. So I give it   FDR 3.97 a try first (71*1.9/34) with default timing at 20 degree.
Just as what I am assuming, this motor got so much torque! it make the rear wheel Skidding around with initial full throttle.  
After test run for 2 minutes, I pick up the car and test the temp. it barely warm at 40 degree. Obviously It is lacking of top end speed but full of low to mid torque.
Then I make the FDR to 3.84, Start to work on timing... At the end of the day I make it at 27 degree.
Test it on Bayside track in Wynnum. I remain the FDR 3.84 and timing at 27 degree.
After 6 minutes run time, the car can easily catch up with all cars on straight no matter what motors people are running (Thunder Power, Trinity, etc.). It can still give me very juicy feel of torque. The initial acceleration and mid power are very strong.
Out of the track it is temped at around 60 degree. I feel I can even gear it down a bit. I will do more test later.
Also, I found out that the G-FORCE motor is quite timing sensitive on temperature. I will suggest keep it lower than 35 degree on motor timing. Try gear change instead.

Conclusion

G-FORCE Super Sonic Brushless Motor is a very strong ground to mid power motor no doubt. It can be fit on off-road buggy or truck as well due to its juicy power. For touring car, you have to gear it up like a 17.5T motor to convert power to speed. Overall very powerful motor!
G-FORCE motor is not officially available in US so it is not ROAR approved but It got BRCA approved already. For Australian racers, it is good to go because most of clubs and events follow both ROAR and BRCA rules.
BTW, My mate Clinton L had run 10.5T G-FORCE Super Sonic Brushless Motor at England Park Raceway, Brendale, who was impressed by the power of this motor as well. He worked out the FDR 4.38 with full timing for 10.5T motor.
Thanks for watching.

Update on 12th/May/2014:

After a second run last weekend, I worked out the most recent FDR and Timing for 13.5T motor: 3.74 for FDR and 31 Degree for Motor Timing! 
I know, the FDR is almost lower than most of 17.5T motors. But it just works like that. Out of track it temped 61 Degree. What an amazing motor!
Forgot to mention, I run it at night time (20C Degree) with R1 Wurks 8.4V Fan attached. But it can sure beat all other motors and still have potential to work on!

Update of motor setting: 

21.5T: 2.99 FDR with 30+ Timing. (Reference only, Setting widely depends on Air temperature)
13.5T: 3.74 FDR with 30+ Timing. (Reference only, Setting widely depends on Air temperature)
10.5T: 4.38 FDR with Full Timing. (Reference only, Setting widely depends on Air temperature)

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Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Eliminate slop on Steering Arms for RC Touring Car VBC Wildfire D06

Eliminate slop on Steering Arms for RC Touring Car VBC Wildfire D06  

Today I am going to share my experience of how to eliminate slop on Steering Arms for VBC Wildfire D06 by proper shimming.
First of all I have to say VBC Wildfire D06 is such a premium quality touring car that you should not have to prepare a lot of shims and washers while building up. Also, I have to commit that in some minor points like center steering arms, you may have to think about shimming to eliminate minor slop to achieve top performance outcome.
It is a very common issue existing on many Touring Cars. What I have done is use 2 types of thin (0.2mm) washers the shim together.

I use one 3mm washer (3mmID, 6mmOD, 0.2mm Thickness) and one 5mm washer (5mmID, 7mmOD, 0.2mm Thickness) to shim each Steering Travel Arm.

Then Place the 5mm washer onto the bearing top.
Then put the 3mm washer on.

Install the screw, then job done!
Finish both steering arms, Then you will have very solid feel of steering system of your VBC Wildfire D06 car.
Thanks for watching.

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Sunday, March 30, 2014

Dampers and Shocks Maintenance for On-Road RC Car VBC Wildfire D06

Today I am going to share some experience of Dampers and Shocks Maintenance for RC cars.
Now, as always, Pics up first.
Let's take all 4 dampers/Shock Absorbers out from car kit.
Before maintain the damper and shocks, let's check the swing arm first.

Lift both front and rear arms up side by side, verify if other side can lift up freely as well.
If not, you probably got something blocking the arm from moving. you have to check suspension blocks, pivot cups, arm pins to find out if anything broken. Re-lubricate them if needed.
If the Arm cannot swing freely, it will provide negative effect to the function of Shock/Dampers and Anti-roll bars, so do the weight balance and weight transfer.
Now, if everything going alright, let's deal with this damping systems.
We need to clean up the surface of all 4 shock/dampers with brush.

After clean up, we have to squeeze the shock-damper to verify if it needs rebuild.
Put your ear close, if you hear bubble or friction sound when squeezing the shock. You are more than likely have to rebuild the shock.
Now, let's take the shock damper apart:
First of all, release the spring by remove the down stopper cap.
If you got a chance, you can also test the re-bound situation of damper as well.
squeeze to the very end then release, see if it can rebound back to pre-load distance. e.g. 10%,50% or 100%.
Well, if you set it up as 0% rebound, you don't have to do this test.
OK, now twist the top shock cap and open it. For the damper fail to rebound to preset value or got friction sound when squeezing, you will probably found the shock oil get dark and some load of bubbles inside. This is because the damper is no longer sealed and you definitely need to have it rebuild.

Pour out the oil inside, use shock shaft clamp to hold he shock shaft. Twist the shock end to release itself.
Be careful to not damage or scratch the shock shaft.

After you take the bottom shock end out, you have to push the shock shaft in from bottom and take it out from upper side.
After that, take the bottom sealer Alum cap apart, take out the shaft guide and O-Ring, clean the dust if needed. Verify if there is any wear out part, If O-Ring is deform, replace it.
Then we put the O-Ring into a small bottle of silicone shock oil.
You don't have to take piston apart unless you have to replace with another type or it is damaged (highly unlikely). But you do have to verify if the shock shaft is bent. Replace if needed.
Now, let's carry on the rebuild process, as always, we recommend green slime from AE to seal the damper with best result.
Before you put the Shaft Guide into the bottom of damper, apply a dip of green slime to the inside.

After put the Shaft Guide in, we put the re-lubricated O-Ring back.
Apply a little bit of Green Slime onto the inside of O-Ring as below.
Befrore cover the O-Ring with Shaft Cap, apply a bit of shock oil on it to guarantee it is fully sealed.
Then tighten up the Alum Shock Bottom Cap.
Dip a bit of shock oil into the inside of shock body, insert the shock shaft with piston from inside and push out.
Now, twist back Shock Bottom Connector, Mark down the length of each shock shaft with Digital Caliper. You have to build each shock with exact same length.
Fill 80-90% of shock oil into the shock body and put it into Damper Oil Remover device.
Repeat the same process on each shock. Now we have all four shock-damper ready.
Suck the bubbles out with Damper Oil Remover, you could see the bubbles rising and explore quickly from shock body. Repeat the sucking process a couple times until you are sure that there is no more air bubbles inside by move the shock shaft up and down.
PS. If you do not have Damper Oil Remover on hand, never mind, move the shock shaft up and down to release bubbles and wait 5-10 minutes and then repeat. The purpose of doing so is to ensure the shock is fully sealed. Damper Oil Remover can make the whole process a lot quicker.
Now, it is time to pre-set the rebound value. We recommend you use this Aluminum Damper Rebound Adjusting Tool from YR. You can pre-set the same value of rebound of each shock-damper precisely.

Now, you have 4 shock ready with the same pre-set rebound value.
 Top-up shock oil into the shock body and cover it with Oil Sealer Cap, blend the cap evenly, don't worry about the oil that spill over, just clean it later with tissue. This process is to make sure there is no air bubbles remain on the top of shock-damper.
Put the Shock Top Connector onto the cap and cover the Shock Body Cap, twist is to sealed.
Final check out: we can squeeze the shock shaft to test the rebound of each shock. If it has been setup correctly, you will got same rebound for 4.
Set the spring back then all done!
Thanks for watching.

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