Monday, March 3, 2014

Maintenance of Driving System for VBC Wildfire D06 (DCV drive shafts and Bearings Cleaning and Lubrication)

Today I would like to share the experience of Driving System Maintenance for VBC Wildfire D06 RC Touring Car.

First of all, release the screws shown on below to take your drive shafts out.

Now, you have successfully taken them out. Investigate the shaft in detailed. Verify if it is bend or damage. Normally you won’t get this thing happen unless you’d just experienced very serious accident on Racing.


Now let’s start to clean the Double Joint (DCV) drive shafts. We use some cotton sticks to wipe out dust and grease residual. Pay more attention to clean the slot of pins.

Remember we need to spin the drive shafts while we clean. Note that some points may got black color faked out, those points request to take extra care to lubricate later. Also we need to make sure there is no glitch sound when we spin.
You can spray some WD40 to make your cleaning task easier but I would not do this cause WD40 can also prevent new grease apply on the drive shaft. Well, yes, you can re-grease with air-dryer, I admit.
While in the middle of cleaning, we have to give a glimpse on front Spool Drive Cup. Investigate if it is wear out or broken. Replace them if needed.


Now we move forward, I bet you 100% need to clean the bearings. Remember, bearings are the parts that you always need to keep an eye on.
From the pictures we can see, we definitely need to take them out to clean.

Now we insert Hex driver into the gap between two bearings, then push out the outside one.
If you have this bearing tool, it can help you push out another one easily. If you don’t, a pencil can help.
Look at how dirty they are.
To clean the bearings, you can use WD40 and cleaning bottle from YR to spray and shake out dirt. Re-lubricate afterward. We won’t talk too much about it here, I may publish a new post about how to clean and re-lubricate RC car bearing in future.
 Now we have bearings clean. Put it on your bearing tool to test if it can spin freely. By the way, a pencil can do the same job.
Now we finish the cleaning jobs for front drive shafts. I know you are more than likely to clean rear drive shafts as well, don't you?
After took out the rear drive shafts. You may notice that the Shaft End Shoes are wear-out badly. We have to replace them. Unscrew the top set-screw, push out the pin then release the wear-out Shaft End Shoe. Bear in mind that you don’t have to tear it out and push a new one in with force. It will damage your plastic parts.


After carefully clean the rear drive shaft joint. We know that we have finished the whole cleaning job.

Now let’s put grease paste back on drive shafts. Use your hex drive to dip a bit of grease and apply it on the pin slot first. Ensure the slot point has fully greased, and then we apply grease on other places. 



If you have your factory grease run-out just like me. You have to go buy some. My recommendation is: you don’t have to go to your LHS to buy those expensive one just with a little amount in bottle. Go find some for your real car, which can also do a brilliant job. Something like below will be enough for your whole RC live.


Grease it, spin it to make sure all moving parts are lubricated.
Use tissue or towels to wipe out the bleeding grease, then you finish.

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

My hand made RC motor fan vent cover

Hey guys, have a look at my hand made motor fan cover.



It is design to fit my R1 Wurks fan. It can optimize the air-flow into motor inlet. Hence help cool down the motor more effectively.
Where to buy the powerful R1 Wurks fans? have look into my RC store website: http://www.speedyrc.com.au. You could even find more you may need.

Monday, January 6, 2014

R1 Wurks 8.4v 30mm Fan Test and Review

I just got this fan yesterday. Keep hearing good praise before, but now I would like to do a test and give it a review.
As normal, Pics up!


It is 5mm thicker than normal 30mm fan.


I picked up 2 popular 30mm fans to do a comparison test. They are 30mm fans from Yeah Racing-Tornado and Zeppin.
We place fans on top of scale with 5mm distance for the test.


First Round

Alright, Let’s begin with connecting all fans to Receiver, which will provide 4.8-6V power to the fans.

First up: Zeppin.
I have tried more than 5 times, maximum to 2 gram.

Follower: Tornado.
 it is so loud and making a lot of Vibrations. Also, it make a better result to 3 gram.

Last one: R1 Wurks.
not making any difference, it get the same result as Yeah Racing one. 3 gram.

First Round over. R1 Wurks = Tornado > Zeppin.

Second Round


Now We connect all fans to the fan port on ESC, which will provide 7.4v power to fans.
First is Zeppin.


It feels like it spin faster but...

Next to Tornado.


It also feels like it began to spin crazy as well, but no more improvement at all...

Finally, R1 Wurks.


Amazing!!! It can reach 9 gram!!! I tried more than 5 times. it can make between 7-10 gram air force.
I am quite happy with the result.

Some Thoughts,

If you only manage to connect your motor fan to receiver and gain about 4.8-6v power output to fan. Just go buy our R1 Wurks 30mm Fan 6V version. Spend $20+ for R1 Wurks is just waste your money cause it won't make any difference.
But, It you have a ESC with separate Fan mount supply 7.4v power. Or, if you would like to connect the fan straight to Lipo battery (8.4v Max). R1 Wurks is your Champion!
After keep running those fans with connection to ESC for about 3 mins, fan motor of R1 still keep cool but the others are very hot (I think they are not design to handle more than 7v power). Sweet!
Thanks for watching.   


Extra: For people from Australia, you can buy R1 Wurks fans from our local online store http://www.speedyrc.com.au 







Thursday, January 2, 2014

CSO 40MM Fan Mount Mod to VBC Wildfire

The Factory Fan Mount from VBC can just fit 30mm Fan.
If you want to mount a bigger one like 40mm, you have to use Motor Fan Mount to Clip on the motor can.
I really don't like those stuff cause most of the time, the slim type fan mount clip will not stay firmly and can easily move around in case of hit or crash.
I still prefer the original fan mount like.

Luckily, I found out this:

But the fan mount from CSO can not direct fit to Wildfire chassis.
So, I decide to saw the middle screw hold.

I just need the bottom one to install.

Here is the comparison:

After initial test, I realize that the CSO fan mount do not have enough spacing for the fan because the spur gear stabilizer is too thick on VBC Wildfire D06.
I have to add 2mm washer and replace the set screw with longer one.

insert set screw from inside, dont forget to apply some threadlock.


You may have to turn the motor guard around to release some space for the 40mm fan.
Alright, Done.
Where to buy the CSO fan mount? Search internet. I told you the part info already. ^_^

<<-Visit SpeedyRC Online eStore

Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Review and Tips for VBC Wildfire D06

After running this kit for a month, I would like to give it a review and express some thoughts and tips.
First of all, I would like to give it a thumb up for the quality parts.

The carbon fibre chassis is very smooth and flat. It gives me the same smooth feeling as X-Ray T4-14. I am quite sure it uses the same standard of quality of Graphit. Compare to its predecessor Wildfire Dynamic, it is a great improvement.

The plastic parts are still strong but not as harsh as its old version. The colour is dyed to black as well, which is what I expect for. Aluminium parts are as always, tough and fine.

Things I really like: very smooth Gear Diff. if you have set it right, it will give you butter-like feeling that I never got from my old TCs. Also, all Alum ball-ends and turn buckles are join up quite smooth with no sloppy. I don’t have to squeeze the plastic turn buckles to free out the joins. Thumb-up!

Building process is flawless as well. All parts bags are clearly tagged with step labels. VBC provides you spare small parts like shims, clips as well. Sweet!

Over all, the quality of the build is quite out of expectation because I spend  a little bit more than $400 for the top-end quality car kit (normally cost more than $500).

Now, to the driving experience, I have setup the car with electronics and parts as below:

  • ESC: Hobbywing Xerun V3.1
  • Motor: Team Trinity Kill shot 13.5T with RPM Stator and 12.5mm High Torque Rotor
  • Servo: XPERT Low-Profile Brushless Servo 6.6v 12kg 0.076sec #PI-3401 LV 
  • TX/RX: Sanwa M12/RX-471
  • Battery: Team Zombie LiPo Rampage Series 7.4v 7200MAH (ROAR Approved)
  • Body: Blitz WRZ 190mm (light weight 0.7mm)
  • Wheels: Team Sorex 36R with soft inserts


I run it in my local club B.R.C.C.C Bay side Wynnum outdoor asphalt track. The track is combination of multiple shot hairpin turns and medium sweep turn with about 50m straights, Medium to bumpy track Surface.

At first, I run it with factory base setup. I instantly feel the car with a lot of steering enter into the corner. In the middle of cornering, rear wheels can still remain calm and stable till out of corner. I am impressed about the initial performance of this car.

After some runs, I decide to remove the front suspension shims and replace the rear ones with 0.5mm in order to eliminate the little entry corner push and give it more grips for bumpy track. I also increase front droop a little bit as well. It runs much better since those small changes.

After a few more tests, I work out the final build for the track as below:

I have to say the car got a lot of potentials and I can push it to the limit very easily because it is very responsive to any changes I made. I have asked one of fastest guys in our club to have a test and he was impressed with the corner speed of the car as well. Sweet!

Alright, let me say something I don’t like.

First of all, the Front bumper is soft. If serious crash happens, it may not be able to save your front suspension arms. I have to replace it with my Wildfire dynamics hard bumper. I think hard bumper for Xray T4 can be interchangeable.

Second, alternative Alum suspension mounts and shims are not included in the package. If you want to fine tune the car, you have to go buy them separately, although the car is very fast from initial. Those Alum parts are not cheap.

Now, here are some tips:
  • Remember to re-lube Arm Pin Pivot Balls (B-02-VBC-0035) after a few runs to protect the suspension system.
  • Keep some C-hubs, spool out-drives and steering blocks as spare although they are quite strong but you never know what will happen on track and when you will need them.
  • Cleaning and lubrication is your must-do task after each race. Bearing, shims, drive shaft joints are the parts you should always look after.
  • If you feel gear biting from turning your gear diff, it is time for rebuild. Also, if you feel some bubble sound inside the damper when you squeeze it, you need to rebuild it as well.
  • Green slime from AE is the best product for sealing your gear diff and shock dampers after rebuild.
  • Drive safe. ^_^

      


  

Tuesday, December 10, 2013

Tuesday, December 3, 2013